By Andrew
Papyrus de Ciane’s severe galbanum and artemisia top notes outdo even Eau de Campagne and Vent Vert in their unrelievedly cold, bitter, green flavor, and don’t sweeten one iota as they age. Indeed, the smoky incense, astringent clove, dry vetiver, and moss that follow only reinforce the stern opening mood. When relief does come it’s in the form of a curiously soapy and medicinal accord of lavender and green neroli, which offers some contrasting softness in lieu of sweetening. The remaining floral notes are divested of all that is fleshy or sensuous and distilled to a chaste, ethereal vapor.
In its combination of dry woody and bitter green notes Papyrus de Ciane is close in tenor, if not content, to Pierre Bourdon’s French Lover for Frédéric Malle. At the same time, its smoky incense, transparency, and sober countenance have stylistic antecedents in the work of Mark Buxton and Bertrand Duchaufour, particularly Buxton’s Comme des Garçons 2 and Duchaufour’s Dzongkha and Timbuktu. Taken from yet another angle, it smells like a descendant of bitter green chypres such as Bandit and Magie Noire, though streamlined, polished, and stripped of ornament for contemporary sensibilities.
Papyrus de Ciane is a pensive, solemn scent, but it is also highly refined, with a delicate transparency that offsets any potential harshness. I consider it a successful departure from Pierre Guillaume’s favored gourmand woody oriental style, and a worthwhile extension of the Parfumerie Générale range. If grave, contemplative fragrances appeal to you, by all means try Papyrus de Ciane.
Year: 2010
Nose: Pierre Guillaume
Notes: bergamot, galbanum, neroli, broom, “solar notes,” lavender, mugwort (artemisia), clove, incense, cistus labadanum, hedione, vetiver, Mousse de Saxe, Silvanone, white musk
Thank for that post. I felt exactly the same way. I like green and I like the sheer woody-incense part, but the bitterness on top was just too much. Even though I admire the scent I don't feel comfortable in it.
ReplyDeleteAgree with you both - I wore PdC all day long and kept re-applying it in a vain bid to succumb to its sombre charms. "Cold, bitter, green", "astringent" and "stern" are all excellent descriptors. Glad to know it is not just me and my skin being wimps again.
ReplyDeleteComing back to this a year later and it's all different, or I should say I'm all different. I love it now. I can't get enough of that bright bitter green and transparent wood, incense and moss. I bought a bottle.
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