For the most part, flankers don't interest me. They generally are released only to ride the coattails of their namesakes, and either don't change enough of the formula to make it worthwhile, or don't smell anything like the original at all. Guerlain and Chanel get my ears to perk up on occasion, ie. - when the original is something noteworthy, and No. 19 and Habit Rouge met that criteria.
No. 19 Poudré
In the press clips released on Chanel's website, Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake speak of reworking No. 19's structure with an overdose of iris and the addition of some new and interesting musks. In the end, they didn't lie, Poudré has a lovely iris topnote and is indeed heavy on the musks. The bad news is that the iris doesn't stick around long enough, and the musks aren't the classy, refined notes found in the likes of No. 5 extrait, but the limey-laundry variety found in your favourite fabric softener. Eventually some dusty notes fade into the drydown, but it's not the powdery wonder I had envisioned. Overall it has nothing at all to do with the original No. 19, but it smells okay either way. No Eau Premiere though.
Year: 2011
Perfumers: Jacques Polge & Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Iris, vetiver, white musks
Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum
Let me first clarify that HR EDP is in fact a new formula, and not, as in the past, a higher concentration of the original. Once upon a time Guerlain used the finest bergamot in the land - tart, pure, and luminous. Lately things haven't been the same, and HR EDP is a good example of that. The citrus topnotes are present, even emphasized, but not of their former glory. Still, they do what they're supposed to. HR's froot-loops heart of orange blossom and leather is consistent, but the drydown throws in an added modernity with the use of oud. I realize that contradicts oud's ancient history, but the recent onslaught of oud scents can only remind one of current market-affairs. The drydown is, frankly, the highlight for me, and the leather-clad bottle is an added bonus. In all rights, a very successful rendition of a classic, and potentially a new addition to my personal collection.
Year: 2011
Perfumers: Jean-Paul Guerlain
Notes: Sweet lime, orange, bergamot, neroli, vanilla, leather, oud
My favorite flanker is probably Fahrenheit Absolute. Fahrenheit was once a gorgeous fragrance, but something changed and I can't bear it now. But, some of the original exists in the heart of Absolute with the odd (and frequent apparently) addition of oud.
ReplyDeleteI've not tried Fahrenheit Absolute, but I agree that the original isn't what it once way.
ReplyDeleteI like a subtle addition of oud, but am not crazy about oud-itself. It seems to have taken over the market recently, and I hope things get toned back...especially when the oud used is clearly not the real thing.
Where did you get the No. 19 Poudré? If I go to The Bay, will they have it? Holt's?
ReplyDeleteonly the bay atm
ReplyDeleteThanks! I'll go tomorrow.
ReplyDeleteDon't get your hopes up! And please (please!) don't buy based on the lovely topnote.
ReplyDeleteNo... I won't. Thanks for the heads-up.
ReplyDeleteI initially pooh poohed the No19 flanker but have changed my opinion. I think it might be a gateway to Chanel's classics for a younger/newer/whatever market. There is still No19 in there and I think a lot of people might like that powdery musk. Time will tell, but I think I like it.Hm.
ReplyDelete