Masterpieces

Updated November, 2012

Masterpiece is a word thrown around at will these days. Everyone has their opinion, and as there is no actual science to determining which fragrance meets the criteria, I'll share mine given some specific criteria (and some not-so-specific preconceived notions).

Note that these are all still in production or available at discounters, etc. Some are getting pricier by the day, so stock up! I won't go into too much detail on why I chose what I did, or even their sordid histories, but I will give a few hints of reformulation where appropriate.

Criteria:

(a) originality - doesn't have to be the first to do something, but if it's not, it has to be the best at what it does;

(b) ingenuity - even the smallest, most minute change can turn something good into something great;

(c) flawlessness - again, even the smallest lack of balance can turn something with potential into a failure;

(d) availability - things like Iris Gris aren't on the list because I'm not here to crush people's hopes; and

(e) versatility - a masterpiece doesn't age, isn't restricted to one time of day, or season, or sex.

The "Classics" (pre-60's)

1. Mitsouko (Guerlain) - I had the good fortune of smelling a reconstruction of Coty's notorious Chypre, and frankly, it smelled a heck of a lot like Mitsouko. While it's sad that Chypre is no longer in production, I'm glad we have its equal. As far as reformulation goes, the new isn't as good as the old, but still perfectly acceptable.

2. Shalimar (Guerlain) - This is frankly what keeps Guerlain in business as far as I'm concerned. Not something I wear personally, but undeniably perfect in every way. Smelling the stages of Shalimar is like watching a retrospective on a beautiful actress whose ray of light never faded. UPDATE - as good as ever.

3. Vol de Nuit (Guerlain) - Another Guerlain that, while lacking the oomph of its brethren, still exudes class and quality. A personal favourite of mine. The EDT is perfect for everyday wear, while the extrait is something I save for special occasions.

4. Jicky (Guerlain) - Can you believe Jicky is nearing its 125th birthday? Still smells modern even in its current formulation, although the EDT leaves something to be desired.

5. L'Heure Bleue (Guerlain) - The least affected by modern reformation, L'HB is refinement bottled. Seems like most new Guerlain releases have L'HB to thank for something, yet none match how special it is. UPDATE - less foody, more floral. Not a bad thing, but not the same.

6. No. 5 (Chanel) - What can be said? This is something I wear regularly in extrait, although it's lost a bit of richness in recent years. The EDT remains a perfect everyday scent. Truly timeless. UPDATE - parfum isn't terrific, short-lived, but still deserves its place on the list. EDT grows more pale with each day.

7. Cuir de Russie (Chanel) - This won't be popular, but I actually prefer the current EDT of CdR over the pre-Exclusifs formulation. The old is smokier and more challenging, while the new is more iris-prominent and floral. You can't go wrong with either of course.

8. Bois des Iles (Chanel) - Another successful Chanel reformulation/modernization. I've tried the old, and while the new isn't quite as strong, it stands its ground quite nicely. The extrait is something magical, but the EDT is something I feel I can wear everyday and never tire of it. I can't top Tania Sanchez' comment that BdI is No. 5's brunette sister. So very apt. UPDATE - parfum isn't quite what it used to be, in the same vein as No. 5, not aging well.

9. Pour Monsieur (Chanel) - This has changed over the years, but is still recognizable. Basically Mitsouko minus the peach and flowers. UPDATE - cheaper still, but still good.

10. Pour Un Homme (Caron) - I wear this often, and although there are a few terrific lavender-vanillas on the market, none match the harmony of PuH. I've been buying older (ugly) bottles, thinking the current couldn't possibly compete, but after a quick sniff of the modern, not much has changed.

11. Joy (Jean Patou) - I always wonder why a perfume doesn't just throw some rose and jasmine in a bottle with a little musk to make it last and watch it sell like hotcakes. Joy seems like a simple idea, but you'd never know it smelling its complexities.

12. Apres l'Ondee (Guerlain) - After receiving a sample of the coveted and rare extrait concentration of AlO, I can honestly say I prefer the EDT. Something this melancholy and pale was meant to be sheer. Sadness bottled. UPDATE - more iris! Not a bad thing!

13. Fracas (Robert Piguet) - Can you believe I debated over including this?? I'll never doubt you again, you beautiful, erotic beast, you. Not for the faint of heart, but a true tuberose never is. One of the few perfumes that still smells as great as it always has, yet hasn't aged a day.

The Contemporaries

14. Angel (Thierry Mugler) - I'm not even going to make an argument for this, it's simple beyond comprehension how truly remarkable Angel is. Sadly, the recent formulations lack the masculine qualities that made the original so genius, so in this case I'd rather find an older bottle online. UPDATE - current formulation is still great. Fruitier, but with less emphasis on the near-tropical, and more on the berry. Less so, but still Angel.

15. Une Fleur de Cassie (Frederic Malle) - UFdC is so utterly bizarre, yet so mesmerizing, I can only compare it to something like Comme des Garcons at its best - hideously beautiful.

16. Chinatown (Bond No. 9) - My famous contradiction - I hate Chinatown, I love Chinatown, I love to hate Chinatown...you get the picture. Loud, brassy, nauseating to some (many), adored by others. Something this controversial (possibly the most, since Angel) deserves some recognition. It's not only hype that makes Chinatown perfection, it never fails to deliver in every other category.

18. Missoni (Missoni) - Funny how, minus the chocolate note, this would have been an utterly pedestrian scent at best. A fruity floral like no other, Missoni is so complex that it will never be fully understood. Again, discontinued, but found affordably online. UPDATE - still reasonably priced, but this trend won't last.

19. Rive Gauche (Yves Saint Laurent) - The popularity of RG still surprises me to this day. It's difficult to wear, challenging to the senses, and because of these aspects (and more), a masterpiece. Calandre is remarkably similar, but becoming incresingly difficult to find, and frankly, didn't have RG's balls. The new is fruitier and soapier than the old, but both are outstanding.

20. S-ex (S-Perfume) - S-ex shifts from pale to vivid at any given moment. It moves on the skin and never fails to evoke an emotion in each who smell it. Love it or hate it, it's remarkable. Art in a bottle.

21. Iris Silver Mist (Serge Lutens) - Uncle Serge should, in theory, have more on this list, and if we were talking about ingenuity alone, he would. However, we're talking masterpieces, and only one makes the cut in my opinion. ISM is stark, cold, damp (yet dry), and completely captivating. UPDATE - now available in the US! At last!

22. Promesse de l'Aube (Parfums MDCI) - Pricey, but worth every penny! MDCI has released some stellar scents, but this one climbed to the top of my list (although Enlevement au Serail was close behind, I feel it doesn't add anything new to the game). Many comparisons have be made to Chanel's 31 Rue Cambon, but Promesse exceeds in refinement (sorry Chanel).

23. Rush (Gucci) - Rush is basically everything that is wrong with the world, done right. By most rights, this should have been a disaster, but instead, works magically. Synthetic florals with a huge shot of cream...it still blows my mind to think that it sells as well as it does.

24. Boucheron (Boucheron) - Of all the 80's releases, Boucheron is, to my mind, the best. While all of them are big and room-filling, Boucheron manages to stay civilized. It feels as though every ingredient known to man was thrown in, and all the better for it.

25. 100% Love (S-Perfume) - Paris (YSL) dipped in dark chocolate...the most apt way to describe 100% Love. Like many of the others on this list, it has many a hater, and again like many others in the list, my opinion morphed from disgust to intrigue to adoration. I'm surprised this has remained in the production. Its makers have my full admiration.

October 2012 Update - Opium has been removed from the list due to its lackluster current formulation.

November 2012 Update - Le Feu d'Issey and Scent (Theo Fennell) have been removed due to discontinuation and difficulty in obtaining. Missoni remains until prices get out of hand. 100% Love added.

Close, but not quite... (for various reasons) - White Linen, Declaration, Bandit, Enlevement au Serail, Bois de Violette, Poison, Diorella, Chamade, Habit Rouge, Vetiver, Dzing!, Amouage Gold, Caleche, Calandre, Le Temps d'Une Fete, Black, Knize Ten, La Myrrhe, Sarrasins, TDC Osmanthus, Kenzo Flower, Lolita Lempicka, Sycomore, Champagne/Yvresse, Saffran Troublant. *post has been revised*