Ambre Fetiche (Annick Goutal)

By Thomas

Generally speaking I’ve held Amber Absolute (Tom Ford) as my ne plus ultra reference amber scent, largely for its strength, durability (I’ve had luggage that didn’t last as long) and wonderful balance. That said, I have to admit to a soft spot for Goutal’s Ambre Fetiche.

Ambre Fetiche opens sumptuously with buttery amber that is soon tempered with dry spicy herbs – which makes a nice balance of opposites. As for what the ‘spicy herbs’ are, they don’t reveal themselves willingly, but I’d have to say basil, bay, thyme, cardamom, and maybe a bit of clove. Kind of like a spice market, or a sparse Lutens. I have to admit, if things stopped here I wouldn’t be disappointed at all.

Amber remains the main focus here from opening to drydown – but is always kept in balance. At opening, we have the dry herbs. Into the development we have dry woods, not too far from Yatagan (with amber on top), and this too is a welcome development.

The balance continues as the woods make way for a dry incense note that recalls the herbs from earlier. In the afternoon, it continues to radiate dry warmth, balancing between amber, incense, and woods. It’s a pretty nimble balancing trick, similar to Amber Absolute except lacking the custardy richness and a bit less smoke.

I have to admit that Ambre Fetiche is a tad easier to wear. I tend to save the AA for ‘occasions’ due to its slightly over-the-top nature (not that I’m some sort of shrinking violet), but I could see pulling out the Ambre Fetiche just as easily for those kinds of evenings and, for day-to-day wear as well. Longevity is easily a full day lasting well into the evening, it throws pretty well but doesn’t dominate, and it doesn’t take much to be noticed. Not my favorite amber, but definitely worth a look if you find AA too overbearing.

Year: 2007

Perfumer: Camille Goutal/Isabelle Doyen

Notes: Frankincense, Labdanum, Styrax, Benzoin, Iris, Vanilla, Russian Leather