By Dane
I'm often surprised when smelling successful perfumes of yesteryear. Not because they disappoint, but because they often stray from what I would perceive as "sellable". Granted, I wasn't buying perfume in the early 70's when Rive Gauche was launched, so I can't really infer any valid opinion. What I do know is that this particular example smells nothing like something you'd find on the shelves today...and it's such a shame.
Before I start the fawning, I'll say this - the current formula of Rive Gauche is clearly different than the original. The blogs and forums are ripe with discussion and debate on this fact, but I'll put my opinion forward and say that the new is both excellent, and an accurate representation of the original. Having said that, they clearly have their differences. New is lighter, fruitier, and all around more crowd-pleasing (for today's nose). Old is darker, more resinous, and ever-so-slightly better in my humble opinion.
Now that that's out of the way, I shall begin my gushing. Rive Gauche is easily one of the most beautiful, perfected aldehydic florals one can have the pleasure of smelling. Of all the perfume genres, the aldehydic floral is the most competitive. Unlike the chypre, it's not easy to find a good variation on the traditional recipe (we'll use No. 5 as the reference). There are many excellent examples on the market today, but few go as far as being innovative (we'll use Amouage Gold as the been-there-done-that, yet still stunning reference). RG managed to take the classic recipe, and twist it into a demonic direction that is haunting and elegant.
Rive Gauche opens with the expected aldehydes, but adds a surprising dash of dark resins. Upon reaching the once again expected floral heart (rich rose in this case), it once again surprises by slipping in an unusual chilly effect that evokes a metallic sheen. The standard musky drydown is present, but brings back some of the resinous vibe, mixed with an equally dark and mossy vetiver note (sadly lacking in the modern rendition). These small adjustments are all that is necessary to bring the standard into the sublime. I've read mentions of a "yeasty" note, and it's something that's always been very evident to my nose, but appears elusive to some. I'm not sure what causes this effect, but it almost recalls the doughy/nuttiness of some iris accords.
I confess, I had a difficult timing warming up to Rive Gauche. I hate to use the word "dated", because beauty never ages, but some elements of the original formulation can easily steer you off course. The modern rendition aided in my understanding before moving back to the classic...a perfumed set of training wheels if you will. Either way, I'm glad my stubborn ways persisted...now that I've fallen, I can't imagine being without it.
Year: 1971
Perfumer: Jacques Polge/Michel Hy
Notes: Aldehydes, rose absolute, oak moss, vetiver, musk, balsamic notes
Would you wear this Dane? Or just have with you to 'gush' over?
ReplyDeleteDefinitely...I wear it all the time.
ReplyDeleteA favorite of mine from the 1970s, when I wore it as a teenager. Have not tried the new version or the "Intense" version that was out a few years back.
ReplyDeleteThe original was glacial rose and quicksilver. Nothing like it, and done in an old-fashioned (to today's nose) manner. I keep trying to turn some up on auction.
I find the "old fashioned" aspect of RG disappears when it dries down on the skin. It manages to smell soapy, floral and gorgeous without the musty quality a lot of vintage scents have. I fell in love with this in '89 after swooning over woman I hardly knew but who always smelled perfect. It was always a huge compliment getter as well. The new one is unwearable for me after falling in love with the original, it's just too different. I am so happy you found the original.
ReplyDeleteLove this stuff, and linked to your wonderful review on my latest blog post. Thanks for pointing out that yeasty goodness running through what seems at first to be such a cold, metallic beauty!
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