Muscs Koublai Khan (2nd Opinion) (Serge Lutens)


By Dane

Much has been said about MKK...could there be anything more to add? Probably not, but another opinion never hurts.

As Mark already mentioned, the descriptions for MKK can be quite horrifying. I admit, I agreed with many of them the first time I smelled it. Raunchy bum was the first thing that came to mind (we can blame the civet for that.) I've never smelled castoreum in isolation, so I can't really pick it out in compositions, but I'm sure it's in there! In fact, every animal ingredient known to man could easily be part of the formula, because I have never in my life encountered anything like it...not even a wet Pierre can compete!

While I was expecting comparisons with other musks like Kiehl's, I can't say I catch the similarities. MKK surely has a hefty dose of synthetic musks, but the general vanillic-skanky-nastiness prevails to my nose.

Before this starts to sound like a negative review, it's not. MKK is revolutionary in the world of French perfumery. Sure, there are likely much raunchier musks out there, but as far as "mass market" perfumes go (rumours are that it will become part of Lutens' export series this year), this takes the cake. My initial impressions remain, but I've somehow learned to love all the things that scared me the most.

Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Year: 1998
Notes: Civet, Castoreum, Costus Roots, Cumin, Labdanum, Moroccan Rose, Ambergris, Ambrette Seeds, Beeswax, Vanilla and Patchouli

2 comments:

  1. hey there,

    i've smelled something very similar to the base of this, but with rose instead of vanilla. Ava Luxe created a perfume called Rasa, and it is extremely animalic like MKK but with spicy rose. (maybe this comment should be posted with Rosine's Twill?)

    Well, rumor has it there were a lot of complaints about it and so she formulated a more "wearable" Rasa and then named the original Rasa Xtreme or something like that. (samples of it are at TPC.)

    I thought it was genius. But my friend smelled it, laughed and called it "poop city"

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  2. Scary at first but easy to love on paper, warm, sexy and natural. On skin, though, it was eau d'homeless. I felt so embarrassed on the bus home from Liberty's. I can't feel the love anymore.

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