Dark Rose (Czech & Speake)

By Thomas

Once you’ve smelled enough scents, you start to get feelings of Déjà vu. As in…gee where have I smelled this before??? Outside of the cross-counter marketing (Azuree – Aramis), you also get your blatant smell-alikes which may be copies, re-imaginings, outright improvements, OR just simply different people having the same inspiration and coming to the same result. These things are all possible.

But, Messrs Czech and Speake, why bother with a third Rose scent? You’ve already got Rose cologne, and No. 88…why now Dark Rose? Because it’s finally compelling enough to write about! Where Rose was a nicely-done rosy soliflore, and No. 88 was yawningly well-mannered, Dark Rose is…interesting, in a Helena Bonham-Carter-at-her-most-disheveled kind of way.

At the beginning, Dark Rose smells of rose (well of course Thomas, now get on with it), and a very earthy dark-chocolate oud. Actually it reminds me a lot of Montale Red Oud, but with the intensity dialed back and a better balance between notes. Where Red Oud made me want to scrub my arms vigorously with a wire brush, this…not so much. Do I like? Well…after a few wearings, I do like.

After the opening burns away, Dark Rose gets sweeter and a bit thicker, like jam. Not cloying, still the oud remains and the earthiness gives way to a woody chocolate. The effect is as though the notes diverge – the rose gets sweeter and the oud gets more dry. Eventually the rose jam and chocolate recede into the background leaving the dry woody oud, which is a welcome companion.

Longevity is fine, it’s fairly powerful relative to some of other scents in the line-up, and projects well. My estimation of this scent has grown through repeated wearings, and I have no trouble recommending this if you find Montale’s offerings to be too aggressive.

Year: 2003
Notes: Saffron, Aga Wood, Sandalwood, Rose, White Amber