Guerlain Chamade pour Homme (2nd Opinion)

by Thomas


Generally I cringe when I hear “…pour Homme” in a perfume name. It gives me the thought that someone took a women’s scent, added in some manly-man smells, rebottled, and tacked “Pour Homme” to the name. Arpege pour Homme (for instance) treated me very very badly, and I dread the day I see SJP “Lovely pour Homme”? Sooo…how about Chamade pour Homme?

The only word that comes to mind when first smelling this: stately. That’s it: I apply, and each time “STATELY” pops up in calligraphic script. I’m starting to think that this is part of the Guerlain edict – every scent shall be stately upon first presentation. We have: a discreet blend of the usual Guerlain suspects: floral/fruity/woody, well put-together. No ruffled hair, nothing untucked. It’s nice, but…too tidy for unruly gents such as yours truly.

Into the heart of the composition (and no other word will do here), I’m struck by a shift to a tangy herbal floral, slightly fruity and teetering on the edge of Sweetart candy. For the most part it stays between the ditches and smells really good in a slightly sharp, commanding way. Actually, it’s familiar: this seems a sort of re-write of Azuree, toned down with more powdery floral notes for modern audiences.

Well into drydown Azuree (or Aramis if you prefer) remains a valid comparison, though eventually the sharpness recedes and we’re left with a lightly-sweetened powdery floral. This is good for a while, well-made, but not different enough to justify seeking out, and certainly not warranting the price tag. If I recall correctly, this is now one of the Guerlain boutique exclusives, which is a strange choice: if you’re in Maison Guerlain Paris, you’d probably be better-served by picking up a bottle of Derby – or better yet – sniff around and find something unique.

Perfumer: Jean-Paul Guerlain
Year: 1999
Notes: hyacinth, pepper, bergamot, nutmeg, leather