Douce Amere (Serge Lutens)

By Dane

I have difficulty distinguishing between some of Lutens' orientals in the export range, and Douce Amere is one of the culprits. Lutens uses a distinctive base of sweet fruits, cedar and woods, and while DA follows this style directly, it has one outstanding feature - absinthe.

Absinthe and I have a sordid history. I won't get into dirty details, but it involved much embarrassment, two nightclub bouncers, an ice cream vendor, a large man from Alberta, and the very understanding employees of the Sheraton Prague. Anyhoo, absinthe has a distinct, sharp licorice note, and DA emphasises this throughout the composition. It never really leaves the stage, but at certain points moves back to let some floral and wood elements into the spotlight.

Funny enough, many of the main ingredients in DA are edible, but the scent itself doesn't come across as a clear gourmande. This is achieved with the use of cedar. Sharp and dry all at the same time, it reappears in many of Lutens' creations, and creates a distinct commonality among his scents.

I probably won't be running out to buy Douce Amere, but when I have worn it, we enjoyed each other's company immensely. Comforting and extremely likable.

Year: 2000
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Artimisia Absinthium, Anise, Cinnamon, Marigold, Foamflower, Jasmin, Lily, Tagetes, Vanilla, Musk, Cedar